The Perry Ellis collection seemed fitting for an Ivy-League playboy, or something similar. The sweaters seemed to reference the smoking jacket pajama favored by the likes of Hugh Hefner. These belted chunky knits--with a shawl collar and deep pockets--seemed to answer the long knits favored by women for several seasons.

But on the runway, it was apparent that these looks were decidedly masculine. And clearly the favorite of the designer-- a model wore one of them with nothing underneath! Hooded toggle jackets and trenches were all in military-issue neutrals. A suit appeared to be waxed, as though it were durable enough to go around the world. And color blocking was on several of the sweaters and jackets, in very muted shades. A gray and cream plaid overcoat was very sophisticated - - sure to be a classic next season.