The captivating dichotomies of the characters played by Catherine Deneuve in her early career in “The Umbrellas of Cherbourg” and “Belle de Jour” inform Malan Breton’s designs for his Fall 2008 Collection. The influence of the cleanliness of design of the mid 60’s is readily detected in the offering, although nothing is a direct translation. Beyond that, conflicts of optimism and foreboding, restriction and freedom, passion and security mirror design thoughts of structure and fluidity. In sketch form, the modern, architectural shapes of the items belie the soft, feminine draping of the rich and supple fabrics. When realized in actual garments, the collection reflects those coexisting opposites for 2008.
Continuing his preference for all natural fabrics, Malan Breton employs a myriad of silks in chiffon, organza, duchesse satin, taffeta and satin-faced gazar to begin the vocabulary. He then adds rich wools in twill, ottoman, honeycomb, tricotine, lanafresca, an open lino plaid, and cashmere in beaver finishes and lightweight plush to create a fascinating conversation with luxurious fall shapes. Some looks appear more fluid and supple while others are more staunch in their support of structure. Each fabric is painstakingly paired with its appropriate silhouette.
Layered fabrics are used when the silhouette benefits most, but many times one good layer of a luxurious fabric with a silk lining works best. In the wools and cashmeres, each fabric used in the collection distinguishes itself with its own unique texture. When silk is layered with wool, unusual and unique garments not often seen elsewhere add to this complex, feminine and beautiful collection for Fall 2008.
Mirroring the ready to wear collection, the new handbags also mix suppleness and structure. In some pieces, Malan juxtaposes two leathers in one bag. Like the clothes, the handbags also feature silk linings
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