Deborah Marquit Spring 2006
Interviewed and Written By Yvette Coleman

I asked Deborah Marquit “How do you position yourself between other lingerie houses?” I received a strong and honest answer: “The difference between myself and the other houses of lingerie, is the company name ‘Deborah Marquit' - - there is an actual person behind it, me.” She states that she is no different from a Kamali or Chanel, and, yes, she is a designer but not like many of the others: she has a strong sense of commitment and direction of the right way to approach a fit and has a philosophy to back it up.

“The thing that differentiates my company from all other companies is I actually design my own product and make it in house with seamstresses right here in NYC. We also do custom bra and corsets kind of like Armani does suits. Most companies have a design team that runs around and copies bras they shopped for in the market and create spec packs to send to a big China factory. This, I am sure, is not design. For my designs, I dream them in my head and then I create them. I dream up a lace or color and make it happen. I do not rely only on what is available in the wholesale market place. I see it in my head first, and then I know I can make it a real product.”

”It is strange that in the industry, all the bras are made in China and then they just slap a label on them, there is no concern for real fit or design. What many companies do is re-style already existing bras, by using new fabrics or new concept twists, but the bra is the same. It becomes a re-do of a re-do and a conceptual thing, until it is so re-done that any fit it may have once had is gone.”

She approaches designing a bra as if she were an architect. “To design a bra is all about ‘draping’ it on a bust form and creating a silhouette that also functions 3-dimensionally and fits and holds up weight and using different fabrics to achieve the support just where you want it to be.” I learned a lot from Ms. Deborah such as the fact that a design has to be sewn and fit 20 to 30 times until you can make it into a pattern and a first sample!

With the liberal use of antique styled lace, trims, textured fabrics this collection wants to stimulate you visually as well as your psychic senses! The combination of color and unexpected fabrics leave the customer in a surreal state, bringing more purpose to the reasons why women spend so much time and effort to find comfort, sexiness and appeal.

I have not made this a ritual or even the reason why I consciously spend so much on lingerie, but it makes sense: there appears to be a link connecting the mind with body to please the psyche (read Carl Jung's writing, in particular, “Memories, Dreams, Reflections”). In Jungian terminology, wearing fluorescent colors “reveres the body” by reflecting light to and from the body, therefore to and from the spirit i.e. you can enhance your mood or state of mind by trying different colors! They say that fluorescent color appeals to the psychosexual and collective subconscious. That could explain a lot for the 80’s!
Deborah’s first sale of lingerie in fluorescent colors was for $800 and sold to Patricia Field in NYC, in 1984. She has been asked to do films and TV shows, such as for Tim Burton and Sex and the City. She has designed for Sarah Jessica Parker, Madonna, Britney Spears, Uma Thurman, Janet Jackson Courtney Love, Iman, many other actresses and musical artists.

This collection keeps its functionality with the continued experimentation of fabrics to produce a comfortable fit, and to celebrate the silhouettes of all women. When asked about some of the trends that she was tired of, she had this to say: “I hate the celebrity thing that is going on in the press now, and I actually almost think it is embarrassing to talk about yourself or what you are doing to the press since there is so much hype placed on items and people that have nothing to do with authenticity or real art. You cannot talk about art with any authenticity. Art is an action that results in a thing.” She wants us to know that she has never ever solicited press “just so you know, I actually don’t believe in it, I think if you are good, they come to you.”

She sees the new trend coming in lingerie will be a sense of realism “because right now the trend is ‘unreal’ and in fashion history what is always true is that whatever extreme is happening at the moment, the opposite extreme will be next. I think smaller busts and more natural figures, no padding and a focus on the natural body and what works for movement and perhaps greater technology in the manufacturing of bras with a more sci-fi edge.”

What’s next for Deborah Marquit: More beautiful laces and intricate details on the high end, more fashion in bras, fashion that is con-current with 7th avenue. She also is looking to create a fragrance, bath products, swimwear, and retail stores.

Deborah Marquit
158 West 15th St
New York, NY 10011
Tel: 212.478.3092
www.deborahmarquit.com