I Am
Hip Hop
An interview with Def Jam University Design Director Boris
Burdikin
Iinterviewed by Yvette Coleman
1984 marked the year that inspired a movement. It was the
year that Russell Simmons established Def Jam as a pioneering
force in entertainment. Over the following 2 decades Russell
made the Def Jam brand the most recognizable logo in hip
hop, representing the lifestyle - - from movies, to television,
video games, poetry, beverages, cell phones, publishing,
comedy-- everything that encompasses the hip hop experience.
Def Jam has emerged as a cultural icon, becoming the brand
that is synonymous with the hottest urban experience in America.
Simmons launched Def Jam University (DJU) in 2001 and it
has become a clothing line that has changed the face of fashion.
Young men and women have listened, laughed and danced with
us. Now, with DJU they are a part of us. Following the phrase "I
am Hip Hop" Def Jam University targets the young Hip
Hop lovers as well as the fashion forward consumer.
Lets start with DJU history. We know the empire started
with Phat Farm and then came Baby Phat.
How and why did DJU
start and who started it?
DJU was a line launched by Russell Simmons and Kellwood.
It is a lower priced line originally launched to compete
in the same market as South Pole and brands like that. It
was launched about two years ago. When we originally launched
as Def Jam University, we found out a lot of kids weren’t
really reacting to it because they thought it was promo product
from Def Jam Records.
Now we’re positioning the brand
as DJU Clothing Company. Although we still have the association
with Def Jam, we’re trying to establish our own entity.
What is the difference between DJU and Phat Farm?
Phat Farm is Russell’s take on Ralph Lauren for the
urban market. Initially, that’s what he launched it
as. And thru the marketing and advertising, that’s
what he is selling it as. |
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He describes DJU as
his alter ego, which is a little bit more street and definitely
edgier. We do our version of the classy, preppy look. We
really push the boundaries with colors. We take some traditional
color pallets and then we throw in crazy color to give it
a twist, which they don’t really do with Phat Farm.
We are trying to distinguish ourselves as more of a denim
brand as opposed to an athletic brand as Team Roc, for example.
What we’re trying to do right now is catch that customer
who is a little to young for Sean John and Phat Farm.
Now lets discuss the term “Urban.” Do you feel
it can pigeonhole a brand or do you prefer the term “street-wear” as
opposed to urban?
Unfortunately, right now, with retailers, “urban” is
not the best word to describe your brand because of the state
of business at the moment in the urban market. Urban is completely
different to me than for a retailer. For me, urban is New
York City and everything it encompasses.
How does DJU position itself amoungst the powerhouses?
It’s
said there are 5 top urban brands: Phat Farm, Sean Jean,
Ecko, Rocawear and Akademiks. Where does DJU fit in?
We play on a different playing field because of our price
points. We’re more on the field with South Pole, AVIREX,
and Mecca USA. But we are definitely the one that will be
coming out with the edgiest product.
We don’t even
compete with the Sean Johns and Rocawears. We have another
line called Denim Academy, which will play in that arena.
That will be more of a denim-based brand not an urban denim
brand. Denim Academy should be coming out next holiday.
What trends are you seriously tired of?
I would have to say the real baggy jeans [which have been
going in the typical urban market]. It’s starting to
shift a little bit. It just got real carried away. As a designer,
you start to lose your design sometimes because the garment
is so big.
How did you get started in the fashion industry?
How early did you know that this is what you wanted to
do for a living?
Well, I was originally born in Russia. And at a young age,
my grandmother used to smuggle clothing and shoes that weren’t
available in Russia. I was always around stylish things.
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I didn’t know that I was going to end up designing.
During high school I had a different style from everyone
else. I always had a creative thing going, in terms of art.
After finishing high school, I went to F.I.T. for two years.
My first real design job was at Adidas. I worked over there
freelance for about five years. From there I went to PONY
and now I’m with DJU.
Do you have any words of advice or wisdom for someone trying
to break into your profession or wishing to do what you do
on a daily basis?
From day one, even when I didn’t know for sure what
I wanted to do, I had an idea I wanted to be in fashion.
I took any opportunity that I could to learn. For example,
working at different jobs such as Henry Bendel on 5th avenue
really has nothing to do with me designing [and has nothing
to do directly] with what I’m doing now. But at the
time it was an opportunity to learn something else about
fashion on a different level. It’s just about utilizing
every opportunity, not taking it for granted, and being a
sponge; asking a lot of questions. And realize it doesn’t
stop when you get to this level.
Def Jam University
1400 Broadway Suite 2800
New York NY 10018
http://www.defjamuniversity.com
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