Roman Keflay: The Reemergence
Written and Interviewed by Asanti Austin 

Draped Jersey, twisted jersey, ruched chiffon, to have fun, to explore, to create, to be...this is Roman Keflay! We sat down with the designer and spoke with her about her previously thriving London-based business and her perspectives on the industry and what it will take for her to regain her stature.

Keflay, whose London-based label closed its doors in 2000, is back on the scene.  After a seven-year hiatus for mental cleansing and self-examination, Keflay is anticipating launching a new collection during the NY Fashion Week ‘08 season. As we sit in Cafe Duke, in New York's SOHO district, Keflay comments on her initial foray into the fashion industry. The daughter of a wealthy Ethiopian hotelier, the Keflay's were forced to leave the country after the Marxist coup, and thereafter called Sweden home. Taught by Catholic nuns, Keflay mastered draping and sewing at an early age. When she applied for college in New York, she admittedly states that she could barley sketch. Her knack was in sewing and draping. Arriving at Parsons, with a suitcase of clothes she had made, she set out to perfect her craft.

Keflay's previous organizational structure is quite interesting. With a design studio based in NYC, Keflay did all of the production and sales almost exclusively in London. Looking after her samples in her own sample room in SOHO, NYC and making numerous trips to London during the season, provided Keflay with quite an obstacle to overcome, but nevertheless the business expanded for several seasons and attracted celebrity clientele.

She showed her collections at the Pure Womenswear shows in London and at Prêt a Porter Paris. A perfectionist at heart, Keflay reminisces about the strenuous nature of going over all the garments meticulously and explaining the mistakes to the sewers herself. Previous clients for Keflay's London-based label included Cherie Blair and Madonna to name a few.   Some of the numerous retail accounts ncluded Hawa, Gallery 28, Little London Boutiques and Giorgio of Beverly Hills.

FashionLedge:  What are the challenges as you begin to reposition yourself in the fashion industry?

Roman: The foremost challenge will be to get back in the rhythm of the work habit and discipline to continuously execute again.

FashionLedge: You mentioned that you are a coat designer extraordinaire.
What is it about your coats that give them an appeal to women?

Roman: I totally understand a woman's body and I know where she wants to be covered and warm, but at the same time what will allow her to feel confident and sexy.

FashionLedge: In your opinion, where is the industry going right now, and where do you see yourself in say, five years?

Roman: I don't exactly know where the industry is going right now for the simple reason that I had to detach myself from the industry for such a long time. I do know where I want to be in five years from now… back on the top of the game, where I belong! You know it's funny after taking the break, I started to get bored and felt a need to create again. It wasn't as if it was overnight. I had this sincere longing to design, to create, and to explore. For 15 years before when I had the company, I was sacrificing my life, my loved ones, and my mental stability. Now that I am a bit more stable and wiser to the game, I hope that I am able not to let this industry control me.

FashionLedge: If you were able to choose your first big retailer, who would it be and why?

Roman: If I have to choose, I would like a retailer that loves and appreciates my work…one that is as focused on my craft and point of view, as much as generating sales.

FashionLedge: Out of all the fabrics you have used in your past collections, is there a particular one that gives you the feeling of the utmost freedom to create?

Roman: It depends.  There are so many fabrics.  The most important thing for me is the feeling I get when I teach the fabric. Each garment is a way to teach the fabric a new shape, a new form, a new movement.

FashionLedge: You were positioned quite well in London in the 90's, is there a possibility that you can go beyond that now?

Roman: I absolutely see myself international way beyond London.

FashionLedge: It is my opinion that often New York designers do not receive the credit or press that they deserve in comparison to their European counterparts. In your opinion can the designers in New York (yourself
included) stand on their own and create a movement where they are looked at with the same level of anticipation and respect as their European counterparts?

Roman: In my opinion, New York designers are appreciated in Europe or elsewhere better than here, and European designers are appreciated in the U.S and else where better than Europe. I guess it is in human nature we tend to appreciate anything that is not locally done.

Roman Keflay is currently sold at EDGE NOHO: 65 Bleecker St, NYC 10012

For more information:
Roman Keflay Inc
484 Broadway 5th Fl
SOHO New York 10013
Ph/ fax 212.219.2065