Lets talk about your fall
collection. What was your inspiration?
I got very inspired by my fascinations of society's "obsession"
with gambling and risk-taking. For me, inspiration comes
from mysterious places. I got started by connecting
with what’s going on around the world with poker playing
and what’s going on online. The evolution of this
gambling movement that takes us into the lottery and the reservations.
This is what I built my fall 2006 collection around.
Who do you envision wearing this collection?
I've always understood my customers being guys like me and
guys a little older and in their 30s who have a more classic
point of view and a more timeless taste level in terms of
the way they approach clothing and wardrobe. [My clients
are] a little more mature, maybe they have a job, a relationship
or a family. But it doesn’t mean they don’t
want to take chances because they do. But they are not
going to be wearing a lot of Gucci and Prada and all black.
They are going to be more inclined to wear a saturated
color. They are more inclined to use patterned color
and texture in an interesting complimentary way to develop
their own individual style.
How hands on are you for your fashion
shows? Do you choose everything from the models to the
makeup style and the styling for each show?
Yes. I'm very much about executing a very specific
vision. Having the models come out in the first burst
with the six cowboys and then having the men and women come
out as pairs and trios...all of that was planned to make a
different statement. Some of the fashion press understand
it while others don’t know what to do with it. But
from my point of view, that’s who I am. And it
allows me to hopefully be different and unique. Going
to Fashion Week, the shows must be amazingly overwhelming
for press and attendees, [which means] much stimulation and
visual information. I feel like if I can show a similar
idea in two or three ways, the audience will see this is about
great classic, high functional clothes. But its also
about pattern, color and texture.
Do you have any “day of show”
rituals to help you prepare?
The day of show, I like to be prepared because there is so
much work that goes into developing these shows. So
the day of show you really just want to make sure that you've
got a good solid schedule and the call times for the models
are right. And if you have the time to focus on the
hair and makeup and the accessories, do so. Styling
is also very important. At that point, you've been through
a number of fittings with each look. You've spoken to
your models and they should know how to get into the clothes
properly. So the final adjustments on my part are very
small just before they go on the runway.
After Fashion Week, do you take a break or do you
prepare for overseas? How do you unwind after a show?
The after show period for me becomes a little hectic because
you have publicity to think about. So you want to make
sure you stay focused on that. Beyond that, there is
a period of winding down and letting things settle. Because
you've just gone through a period of heavy stimulation. The
team is tired and you've got to give yourself the time to
recharge so you can get ready to do it again. The week
after Fashion Week, I choose to just stay at home with family
and relax.
With the next Fashion Week event only 4-6 months away, that’s
a lot of planning for such a huge event. It has to take a lot of time
to prepare. When do you begin planning for the next event?
For the American Gambler [the show that just took place
this past February], I began my preparations in May.
That’s when I got my inspirations for the theme.
I generally know what my inspiration for next season
is going to be before the prior season is over. I already
know what I’m doing for Spring 2007. You really
have to because development should work that way. I
tend to grab onto bigger themes. A year ago it was “Sons
of The Greatest Generations.” For summer it was
“California Dream,” which was just my take on
California. And then this time it was “American
Gambler.” That’s really where the process
starts. Some of the key pieces come out of the way you
envision this man and this woman living in different aspects
of that lifestyle. And then the actual ready-to-wear
collection really kind of rolls off of that. To me,
that’s how it works.
How important is it showcasing during New York’s
Fashion Week?
7th On Sixth [production company behind Olympus Fashion
Week] is really the best venue there is. You have
a good gathering of fashion media there all in one place.
It's more convenient for the editors instead of having to
run around town going to different off-site showings.
People are focused on it. So you have the opportunity
to get your message in front of a broader group of people.
I’ve showed off-site, so I know what that feels like.
Being part of the 7th on Sixth environment is a positive thing.
You are dealing with so many designers and so many shows and
we’re all working very hard and “competing”
for the same attention. But I think 7th on Sixth does
a great job in creating an environment which makes it easy
on the designer and easy on the staff. All and all I
think it’s a positive experience.
What do you think are the biggest trends right now?
What I think continues to be important is clothing that functions…clothing
that’s versatile…clothing that helps us get through
our day. It seems to me that we are all a tad over committed
these days. We’re all too busy doing more than
we’ve ever done. And we need a wardrobe that supports
that. At the same time, I believe in color. I
love color, texture, patterns and things that fit. I
want to give him/her the opportunity to look great but at
the same time provide a wardrobe that functions and performs
for him/her. It looks as good at the office as it does
at his sons soccer game. I want to give him/her the ability
to transition through that day. Luxury is important
here too. It ties in with the full idea of comfort.
Who do you think are today’s biggest style icons? Who
would you like to dress?
WOW! Good question. There’s a British actor
named Clive Owen [Academy Award nominee has starred in
Sin City, Derailed with
Jennfier Anniston, and Spike Lee’s upcoming thriller
Man Inside alongside Denzel
Washington]. He’s very tall with very strong
features, but he has a sensitivity and realness to him that
I like. He seems very grounded with solid values.
On the women’s side, another young Britsih actress named
Keira Knightley [stared in the blockbuster Pirates
of the Caribbean alongside Johnny Deep and
King Arthur alongside Clive
Owen]. I love the way that she projects and I think
she has wonderful personal style. She’s another
one that I think is going to be important.
What's next for your collection?
I’m very interested in this whole idea of the neo modern
colonist. I call him “The Island Traveler”.
The idea of the gentleman who’s out in the world.
I see him in a lot of environments where there is definitely
color but it’s a more neutral palette with beautiful
colors coming through it. Think of the sand and the
ocean and a more tropical environment. I love the idea
of this guy in color and in cotton and in silk. All
of these natural fabrics with sort of the washed down vintage
color feeling. I’m on to that.
Any words of advice or wisdom for someone trying to
break into your profession?
I would say follow your heart. I do what I do because
I have a passion for it. Plain and simple. Its
not about money. Its not about celebrity. Its
all about a love for the product and a love for the art.
And ultimately, it’s all about a passion for creating
and articulating your vision of life through clothing.
That’s where I come from. And if that other stuff
gets mixed up in it, I get lost. The other advice I
would give is to always be true to your own heart and your
own vision. If you begin to listen to what other people
tell you is right or wrong and you don’t stay faithful
to your vision, you will get lost. Right or wrong, it
has to come from my heart. I have to feel it.
In closing, I have to say that you guys are doing
a wonderful job over there [at FashionLedge].
I look at your website often. And I appreciate the enormous
volume of shows that you cover and comment on. It’s
exciting to see your magazine and subscriber base growing.
For more information about Henry Jacobson, please
contact:
880 Harbour Way South
Richmond, CA 94804
Contact: Michael Snyder
Phone: 415-448-1922
FAX: 415-457-1671
www.henryjacobson.com
PR: Kinney Kinsella
45 W. 21st St., 6th Floor
New York, NY 10010
Contact: Katie Kinsella
Phone : 212-620-0356
www.kinneyandkinsella.com |
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